Hair Codes: What They Are & How to Use Them

Hair codes are shorthand labels used by hairstylists, colorists, and product manufacturers to identify specific hair types, textures, and color formulas. This article explains the most common coding systems—from the 1–4 texture scale to professional color numbering—so you can decode labels, talk to your stylist, and choose products with confidence.

Formula

The pace formula is straightforward: pace = total time ÷ distance. Speed is the inverse: speed = distance ÷ time. In the calculator above, time is entered in minutes, distance in kilometers, and the outputs are pace in minutes per kilometer and speed in kilometers per hour.

• t = finish time (minutes)
• d = distance (kilometers)
• pace = t ÷ d (min/km)
• speed = d ÷ (t ÷ 60) (km/h)

Worked Example

Using the default values: t = 50 minutes, d = 10 km.

1. Pace = 50 ÷ 10 = 5.00 min/km
2. Speed = 10 ÷ (50 ÷ 60) = 10 ÷ 0.8333 = 12.00 km/h

The calculator shows an average pace of 5:00 per kilometer and a speed of 12.0 km/h.

Why Hair Codes Matter

Hair codes exist because hair is highly variable. Two people with the same length and color can have completely different needs—one may have fine, straight strands while another has coarse, tight curls. Without a standard way to describe these differences, choosing products or communicating with a stylist becomes guesswork. Codes provide a common language that reduces errors and helps you find the right care routine faster.

There are three main types of hair codes you’ll encounter:

• Texture codes (e.g., 2A, 3C, 4B) describe curl pattern and strand thickness.
• Color codes (e.g., 5.3, 7.1) specify shade level and tone in professional dye.
• Product codes (e.g., on bottles) indicate formulation, like sulfate-free or for color-treated hair.

The 1–4 Texture Scale

The most widely used hair typing system was popularized by stylist Andre Walker in the 1990s. It divides hair into four main types, each with subcategories:

• Type 1 – Straight: No curl. Subtypes 1A (very fine), 1B (medium), 1C (coarse with slight wave).
• Type 2 – Wavy: Loose S-shapes. 2A (fine, easy to straighten), 2B (defined waves), 2C (thick, frizz-prone).
• Type 3 – Curly: Spirals. 3A (loose curls), 3B (tight corkscrews), 3C (dense, fine curls).
• Type 4 – Coily: Very tight zigzag or S-pattern. 4A (soft coils), 4B (Z-shaped), 4C (extremely tight, shrinkage-prone).

This system is a starting point, not a strict rule—many people have multiple curl patterns on one head. It’s most useful for choosing product weight (light for 2A, heavy for 4C) and styling methods.

Professional Color Codes

Hair color codes use a number-letter system. The number before the decimal (or after a dash) indicates the level of lightness, from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). The number or letter after the decimal indicates the tone:

• .0 – natural/neutral
• .1 – ash (cool, green/blue base)
• .2 – pearly/beige (violet base)
• .3 – gold/yellow
• .4 – copper/orange
• .5 – mahogany/red
• .6 – red/violet
• .7 – matte/green

For example, a color labeled 7.3 means level 7 (dark blonde) with gold tone. A 5.1 is level 5 (light brown) with ash tone. If you see two numbers after the decimal (e.g., 6.34), the first is the primary tone and the second is a secondary accent. This system is used by many brands, but exact shades can vary, so always check the brand’s swatch chart.

How to Choose Your Hair Code

To determine your texture code, wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo, let it air dry without products, and examine a strand under bright light. Compare it to the descriptions above. For color, look at the base of your hair (roots) in natural light—the level is how light or dark it is, the tone is the undertone (warm, cool, or neutral).

If you’re shopping for products, look for codes on the label that match your needs:

• Fine or straight hair → look for “lightweight” or “volume” (often coded with a 1 or 2).
• Wavy or curly → look for “curl defining” or “hydrating” (codes 2–3).
• Coily or very dry → look for “butter” or “cream” (codes 4).
• Color-treated → look for “sulfate-free” or “color-safe” (often indicated with a specific icon or code).

Common Mistakes & Misconceptions

One major misconception is that the texture scale is a quality ranking. Type 4C is not “worse” than 2A—it’s simply different. Another mistake is assuming your curl type never changes. Hormones, humidity, heat damage, and even age can alter your pattern. Also, many people confuse thickness (fine vs. coarse) with density (how many strands per square inch). You can have fine strands but high density, or coarse strands with low density. Texture codes only describe the strand itself, not how much hair you have.

With color codes, a common error is misreading the level. Level 5 is not “dark brown” in every brand—some call it light brown, others medium brown. Always look at the brand’s own chart. Also, the tone number does not tell you the final result on your hair; it’s the tone of the dye, which interacts with your natural pigment.

Limits of Hair Codes

Hair codes are a simplification. They cannot capture porosity (how well your hair absorbs moisture), elasticity, or damage level—all critical for product choice. Two people with the same 3B code may need completely different routines if one has high porosity and the other low. Similarly, color codes don’t account for gray coverage percentage or existing color, which dramatically affect the result. For any major color change, a patch test and strand test are essential, and a professional consultation is recommended.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does 4C hair mean?

4C hair is the tightest coil pattern on the Andre Walker scale. It has a visible Z-shape when stretched, tends to shrink significantly (up to 75% of its length), and is prone to dryness because natural oils have a hard time traveling down the strand. It’s not fragile by nature, but it requires regular moisture and gentle handling.

How do I know if I’m a 2B or 2C?

2B waves form a defined S-shape and are medium in thickness, while 2C waves are thicker, more frizz-prone, and start closer to the root. If your waves are easily straightened and don’t hold a curl, you’re likely 2B. If they have a visible wave pattern even when wet and tend to frizz, you’re probably 2C.

What does the number in hair color mean?

The number before the decimal (or dash) is the level—how light or dark the color is on a scale of 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). The number after the decimal is the tone—the underlying hue like ash, gold, or copper. For example, 6.3 is dark blonde with gold tone.

Can I use the same hair code for both texture and color?

No. Texture codes (like 3A) describe curl pattern, while color codes (like 7.1) describe shade and tone. They’re independent systems. You could be a 3A with a 6.4 color code, for instance.

Why does my curl type change?

Curl pattern can change due to hormonal shifts (pregnancy, menopause), heat or chemical damage, humidity, and even aging. Damage can loosen curls temporarily, while some people see tighter curls after changing their routine or cutting off damaged ends. It’s normal to have different types in different sections of your head.

Is there an official hair code authority?

No. The Andre Walker system is a widely used convention, but it’s not an official standard. Different brands and stylists may use variations. The same goes for color codes—most manufacturers follow the level/tone convention, but exact shades and numbering can differ, so always check the specific brand’s chart.

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in t | Finish time | min | 50 | 0
in d | Distance | km | 10 | 0 | 100000
out pace | Average pace | min/km | t / d | 2
out speed | Average speed | km/h | d / (t / 60) | 2