Switch and Keycap Obsession: A Deep Dive

If you’ve moved past collecting whole keyboards and now find yourself obsessing over individual switches and keycaps, you’re not alone—this is a natural progression in the mechanical keyboard hobby. This article explains why switches and keycaps become the focus, how to choose them, what they cost, and how to avoid common pitfalls.

Formula

The calculator above estimates your typing speed (words per minute) and characters per second based on the time you spent typing and the number of words you typed. The formulas are:

• Typing speed (WPM) = Words typed ÷ Time (minutes)
• Characters per second (CPS) = (Words typed × 5) ÷ (Time in seconds)

Where:

• Words typed = the number of words you typed (counted as 5 characters per word, a standard convention).
• Time = the duration of your typing session in minutes.
• Characters per second = an estimate of how many keystrokes you make per second, assuming an average word length of 5 characters.

Worked Example

Suppose you typed 200 words in 10 minutes. Using the default values:

1. Typing speed = 200 ÷ 10 = 20 WPM
2. Characters per second = (200 × 5) ÷ (10 × 60) = 1000 ÷ 600 = 1.67 CPS

The calculator shows 20.0 WPM and 1.7 CPS, matching the manual calculation.

Why Switches and Keycaps Become the Obsession

After you’ve built or bought a few keyboards, the board itself becomes a known quantity—the case, the PCB, the plate. What keeps the hobby fresh is the infinite variety of switches and keycaps. Switches determine the feel and sound of every keystroke, while keycaps change the look and texture. Together, they offer a level of customization that makes each keyboard feel uniquely yours.

Many enthusiasts start by swapping keycaps on a prebuilt board, then move to replacing switches (if the board is hot-swappable). This progression naturally leads to a deeper appreciation of the subtle differences between switch types—linear, tactile, and clicky—and the materials and profiles of keycaps.

How Switches Work

A mechanical switch is a self-contained unit that registers a keypress when you push the stem down far enough to close an electrical contact. The three main types are:

• Linear: Smooth and consistent from top to bottom, no tactile bump or click. Examples: Cherry MX Red, Gateron Yellow.
• Tactile: A noticeable bump in the middle of the press, giving feedback that the key has actuated. Examples: Cherry MX Brown, Zealios.
• Clicky: A tactile bump plus an audible click sound, often from a separate mechanism. Examples: Cherry MX Blue, Kailh Box White.

Switches also vary in actuation force (how hard you press), travel distance, and stem shape (cross, box, or optical). Hot-swappable keyboards let you change switches without soldering, which is why many enthusiasts buy sample packs to test before committing.

How Keycaps Differ

Keycaps affect typing comfort and sound. The main factors are:

• Profile: The shape and height of the caps. Common profiles include OEM (tall, sculpted), Cherry (similar but shorter), SA (high, spherical), and DSA (low, uniform).
• Material: ABS (smooth, can shine over time) and PBT (textured, more durable) are the most common. Double-shot molding (two plastic layers) is more durable than pad-printed legends.
• Stem compatibility: Most keycaps use a cross-shaped stem that fits Cherry MX-style switches, but some use different stems (e.g., Topre, Alps, or low-profile).

Keycap sets are often sold in kits that cover different keyboard layouts, so you need to check that the set includes the right sizes for your spacebar, shift, and other keys.

How to Choose What to Buy

Start with your priorities: do you want a quiet, smooth typing experience, or do you prefer audible feedback? For switches, buy a switch tester (a small board with a few different switches) to feel the differences. For keycaps, consider the profile and material—if you type for long hours, a sculpted profile like Cherry or OEM is generally more comfortable than a uniform one.

Also think about your keyboard’s layout. If you have a 60% board (no function row or arrow keys), you’ll need a keycap set that includes the correct sizes for the right shift, backspace, and other keys. For switches, ensure they are compatible with your board’s mounting (3-pin vs. 5-pin) and whether your board is hot-swappable.

Common Problems and Misconceptions

• “All switches feel the same”: False. The difference between a linear and a tactile switch is immediately noticeable, and even within the same type, force curves vary.
• “PBT keycaps are always better”: PBT is more durable and resistant to shine, but ABS can feel smoother and is often used in high-end double-shot sets. Both are fine.
• “You need to lube everything”: Lubricating switches can reduce friction and improve feel, but it’s optional. Some switches come pre-lubed, and over-lubing can make them mushy.
• “More expensive means better”: Price often reflects rarity or brand, not necessarily quality. A $60 switch set can feel better than a $200 one if it matches your preference.

Costs and Budgeting

Switches typically cost between $0.30 and $1.50 per switch, so a full board (60-100 switches) can range from $20 to $150. Keycap sets vary widely: a basic PBT set can be $30-$50, while a limited-run GMK set can exceed $150. If you’re just starting, a switch tester ($10-$20) and a budget keycap set are low-risk investments. Remember that shipping and import fees can add up, especially for group buys.

Safety and Maintenance

There’s little physical risk in this hobby, but a few tips:

• When cleaning keycaps, remove them and soak in warm soapy water, then rinse and dry completely before reinstalling.
• Use a keycap puller (wire type is best) to avoid scratching the caps or switch stems.
• If you lube switches, use a small brush and apply sparingly to the stem sides—avoid getting lube on the contact leaves.
• Always unplug your keyboard before removing switches or keycaps to prevent accidental key presses.

Alternatives to Collecting

If you don’t want to accumulate many switches and keycaps, consider:

• Customizing one board: Invest in a high-quality switch and keycap set that you truly love, and keep it as your daily driver.
• Digital customization: Use software to remap keys or create macros, which can change the feel of your board without new hardware.
• Joining a community: Many enthusiasts trade or sell used switches and keycaps, so you can try new things without buying new.

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the difference between a switch tester and a hot-swappable keyboard?

A switch tester is a small device with a few different switches mounted on it, so you can press them and feel the difference. A hot-swappable keyboard allows you to remove and replace switches without soldering, making it easy to change switches on your actual board.

Can I put any keycap on any switch?

No. Most keycaps have a cross-shaped stem that fits Cherry MX-style switches, but if you have Topre, Alps, or optical switches, you need keycaps with a compatible stem. Always check the stem type before buying.

How do I know if a keycap set fits my keyboard?

Check the layout of your keyboard (e.g., ANSI vs. ISO, number of keys) and compare it to the keycap set’s kit contents. Look for the sizes of the spacebar, shift, and enter keys—some sets include multiple sizes to fit various layouts.

Is it worth lubing switches?

Lubing can make switches smoother and quieter, but it’s time-consuming and requires care. Many enthusiasts find it worth it, but if you’re happy with the stock feel, you don’t need to do it.

Why do some keycaps cost over $100?

High prices often come from limited production runs, custom colorways, or brand reputation. The material and manufacturing (double-shot PBT or ABS) add cost, but you’re also paying for rarity and design.

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in t | Typing time | min | 10 | 0 | 1440
in w | Words typed | words | 200 | 0 | 10000
out wpm | Typing speed | words/min | w / t | 1
out cps | Characters per second | chars/s | (w * 5) / (t * 60) | 1