Solar Eclipse Photography: Safe Steps

This guide walks you through photographing a total solar eclipse from the moment the Moon first touches the Sun until the brief, breathtaking minutes of totality. You’ll learn what equipment you need, how to set up your camera safely, and exactly what to do at each phase—so you can capture stunning images without damaging your eyes or gear.

What You’ll Need

• Solar filter (glass or film, certified for direct viewing) that fits your lens or telescope. This is non-negotiable for all partial phases.
• DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual controls and a tripod.
• Telephoto lens (200mm or longer) or a telescope with a camera adapter. The Sun appears small—about 0.5° across—so you need magnification to fill the frame.
• Remote shutter release or the camera’s self-timer to avoid vibration.
• Spare batteries and memory cards—cold weather and long shooting drain both.
• Solar viewing glasses for your eyes (even if you’re behind the camera, you’ll need to look around).
• Optional: a laptop or tablet with eclipse timing apps, and a printed checklist of camera settings.

Step-by-Step

1. Know your eclipse times. Get the exact times for first contact, maximum eclipse, and totality for your location. Use a reliable app or website. Arrive at your spot at least an hour before first contact.
2. Set up your tripod and camera. Mount the camera securely, level the tripod, and point the lens roughly at the Sun’s path. If you have a solar finder (or use the Sun’s shadow on the ground), align now.
3. Attach the solar filter. Make sure it’s firmly in place over the front of the lens. Never look through an unfiltered camera viewfinder at the Sun.
4. Focus on the Sun. Use live view and zoom in on the Sun’s edge. Manually focus until the edge is sharp. If your lens has autofocus, turn it off after achieving focus.
5. Set exposure for the partial phases. With the solar filter on, start with ISO 100, aperture f/8, and shutter speed around 1/500s. Check the histogram—the Sun should be a bright disk but not clipped. Adjust shutter speed accordingly.
6. Take a test shot. Review the image zoomed in. The Sun should be a crisp circle with no blur. If it’s soft, refocus.
7. Shoot continuously during partial phases. Take a series of shots every few minutes to capture the Moon’s progress. Keep the same settings unless the light changes (it won’t until totality).
8. Watch the light dim. As totality approaches, the sky darkens, and the temperature drops. About 30 seconds before totality, remove the solar filter.
9. Adjust for totality. Immediately change settings: ISO 400–800, aperture f/5.6–f/8, shutter speed 1/100s to 1s. The corona is faint and has a wide dynamic range, so bracket exposures from 1/1000s to 1s.
10. Shoot through totality. Use a remote release and take a burst of shots at different exposures. Don’t forget to look up with your own eyes—the view is spectacular. Totality lasts only minutes, so prioritize enjoying it.
11. Replace the solar filter immediately when totality ends. The Sun’s bright edge reappears suddenly. Put the filter back on before looking through the camera again.
12. Continue shooting the partial phases after totality. Use the same settings as before. Then review your images, back them up, and celebrate.

Common Mistakes

• Leaving the solar filter on during totality. You’ll get a black disk with no corona. Remove it exactly at totality.
• Removing the filter too early or late. Even a sliver of direct sunlight can damage your camera sensor and your eyes. Time it precisely.
• Using a camera with a viewfinder without a filter. Never look through an unfiltered optical viewfinder at the Sun—it can cause instant eye damage.
• Autofocus hunting. The Sun’s low contrast can make autofocus fail. Use manual focus and tape the focus ring if necessary.
• Underexposing the corona. The corona is much fainter than the Sun’s surface. If you keep partial-phase settings, you’ll get a black image.
• Forgetting to check focus after changing lenses or filters. Always re-focus after any change.

Tips

• Practice before the eclipse. Set up your camera and practice focusing and changing settings in daylight. You’ll be working quickly in the dark.
• Use a solar finder. A small telescope or shadow-based finder helps you aim without looking at the Sun.
• Shoot in RAW. You’ll have more flexibility to adjust exposure and white balance later.
• Bracket your exposures. The corona’s brightness varies greatly—shoot a range of shutter speeds to capture both the inner and outer corona.
• Include a landscape or crowd to give scale. A wide-angle shot of the darkened sky can be as compelling as a close-up.
• Bring a notebook. Write down your settings and times so you can learn for next time.

Troubleshooting

• Camera won’t focus. Switch to manual focus and use live view with 10x zoom. If it’s still blurry, check that the solar filter is clean and not causing haze.
• Images are too dark or too bright. Check your histogram. For partial phases, the Sun should be near the right edge but not clipped. For totality, the corona should be visible with no pure black or white areas.
• Battery died. Cold weather kills batteries fast. Keep spares in a warm pocket and swap quickly. Also, disable image stabilization when on a tripod to save power.
• Memory card full. Format a fresh card before the eclipse. If it fills during shooting, quickly swap to a spare.
• Clouds roll in. If clouds block the Sun, keep shooting—clouds can create dramatic effects. If you lose the Sun entirely, focus on the darkening sky and environment.
• Filter fell off. If the filter comes off during partial phases, immediately stop looking through the camera and put it back. Check that it’s securely attached before resuming.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a smartphone to photograph the eclipse?

Yes, but you’ll need a telephoto lens attachment and a solar filter. Smartphones are best for wide-angle shots of the scene or for capturing the diamond ring effect if you have a zoom lens.

What ISO should I use for totality?

Start at ISO 400–800. Adjust based on your test shots. Higher ISO allows faster shutter speeds to freeze the corona’s detail, but increases noise.

Do I need a special solar filter for my camera?

Yes. A standard ND filter is not enough—it lets through too much infrared and ultraviolet light. Use a certified solar filter (like Baader film or glass) designed for photography.

How do I know when to remove the solar filter?

Use an eclipse timer app or watch the sky. When the last sliver of sunlight disappears and you see the corona with your naked eye (through solar glasses), it’s safe to remove the filter. But do it just before totality begins to be ready.

What if I miss the focus during totality?

Don’t panic. If you’re pre-focused on the Sun’s edge, the corona will still be in focus. If you’re unsure, take a few shots and adjust quickly—but remember you have only a couple of minutes.

Can I photograph the eclipse without a telescope?

Yes, with a telephoto lens (200mm or more) you can get a small but clear image. A 400mm lens will fill a quarter of the frame. For a full-frame view, you’ll need a telescope or a 1000mm lens.

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