How to Photograph the Aurora Borealis

This guide walks you through photographing the aurora borealis (northern lights) with a DSLR or mirrorless camera. You’ll learn the exact camera settings, focusing technique, and composition tips to capture the lights clearly, even if you’re a beginner. No special astro-modified gear is required—just a camera with manual controls, a wide-angle lens, and a sturdy tripod.

What You’ll Need

• DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual (M) mode
• Wide-angle lens (14–24mm full-frame equivalent, f/2.8 or faster)
• Sturdy tripod
• Remote shutter release or camera’s built-in 2-second timer
• Fully charged battery (plus spares—cold drains them fast)
• Memory cards with plenty of space
• Headlamp with red light mode (to preserve your night vision)
• Lens cloth or blower for dew/frost

Step-by-Step

1. Find a dark location with clear skies. Check aurora forecasts (like the OVATION model) and cloud cover. Get away from city lights; the darker the sky, the more vivid the aurora. Face north in the northern hemisphere (south in the southern) and give your eyes 15–20 minutes to adapt.
2. Set up your tripod and camera. Mount the camera firmly, level the tripod, and compose your shot. Include some foreground (trees, mountains, a lake) to give scale—aurora photos look flat without it.
3. Switch to manual (M) mode and RAW format. RAW gives you far more latitude to recover detail and color in post-processing. If your camera has a “bulb” mode for long exposures, you’ll use it for exposures longer than 30 seconds.
4. Set aperture to its widest (lowest f-number). Use f/2.8 or f/1.8 if available. This lets in maximum light, which is critical for capturing the aurora’s movement and faint colors.
5. Set ISO between 1600 and 6400. Start at ISO 3200. Higher ISO lets you use shorter shutter speeds to freeze aurora motion, but increases noise. Test and adjust based on the aurora’s brightness.
6. Set shutter speed between 2 and 15 seconds. Bright, fast-moving aurora: 2–5 seconds. Slow, faint aurora: 10–15 seconds. If the aurora is very active, use shorter speeds to avoid blurring the structure.
7. Focus manually to infinity. Autofocus fails in the dark. Switch to manual focus, use live view, zoom in on a bright star or distant light, and adjust until the star is a tiny, sharp dot. Turn off image stabilization (on a tripod it can cause blur).
8. Use a remote shutter release or 2-second timer. Pressing the shutter by hand causes camera shake. A remote cable or wireless release is best; otherwise, use the built-in timer.
9. Take a test shot and review. Check the histogram—the image should be bright but not overexposed (no clipped highlights). Zoom in to verify focus. Adjust ISO or shutter speed as needed.
10. Take multiple shots and vary settings. The aurora changes constantly. Shoot a burst of frames with different shutter speeds to get a range of looks. Also try a few vertical compositions to capture tall arcs.
11. Keep the lens dry. In cold, humid air, the lens can fog or frost. Use a lens cloth or a lens warmer (like a hand warmer wrapped around the lens) to prevent condensation.

Common Mistakes

• Autofocus left on: It hunts in the dark and can ruin a shot. Always switch to manual focus.
• Shutter speed too long: The aurora moves, and a 20-second exposure turns a dancing curtain into a green smudge. Use 5–10 seconds for active aurora.
• ISO too low: ISO 400 will leave you with a black image. Don’t be afraid of ISO 3200 or 6400—noise is better than no aurora.
• Forgetting to remove the lens cap: It happens more often than you’d think. Check before you start.
• Not using a tripod: Handheld shots will be blurry. No tripod means no aurora photos.
• Ignoring the foreground: A photo of just the sky looks like a sensor test. Include a silhouette for context.

Tips

• Check the aurora forecast: Apps and websites like NOAA’s Space Weather Prediction Center give 30-minute forecasts. Aim for a Kp index of 4 or higher for your latitude.
• Arrive early and stay late: Auroras can appear anytime between dusk and dawn. The best activity often occurs around midnight local time.
• Use a fast lens: A f/1.8 or f/1.4 lens allows you to lower ISO and still get sharp images. If you only have a kit lens (f/3.5), you can still try—use ISO 6400 and 15-second exposures.
• Shoot in RAW and edit later: You can brighten shadows, enhance colors, and reduce noise in post-processing. Don’t rely on JPEG.
• Keep spare batteries warm: Cold kills batteries quickly. Keep spares in an inner pocket and swap them out as needed.
• Look for the aurora with your eyes first: The camera sees more color than your eyes, but you need to know where to point. Watch for a faint green glow on the horizon that intensifies.

Troubleshooting

• Images are completely black: Check that the lens cap is off, the camera is in manual mode, and the shutter speed is long enough (try 10 seconds). Also verify ISO is at least 1600.
• Images are blurry: Likely camera shake. Use a remote release or timer, ensure the tripod is stable, and turn off image stabilization. Also check that focus is truly on infinity—zoom in on a star in live view.
• Stars are streaking: Your shutter speed is too long for the focal length. Use the “500 rule”: divide 500 by your full-frame equivalent focal length (e.g., 20mm → 25 seconds max). For aurora, use even shorter.
• Lens is fogging or frosting: This is condensation. Wipe gently with a lens cloth, and use a lens warmer or a sock filled with silica gel. Let the camera acclimate gradually when moving from warm to cold.
• Aurora is faint or invisible in the photo: Increase ISO (try 6400) and lengthen the shutter speed (up to 15 seconds). If it’s still too dark, the aurora may be too weak—check the forecast and try again on a more active night.
• Colors look wrong (green instead of red): The camera sees what’s there. Green is most common. Red aurora is rarer and appears at higher altitudes. Adjust white balance in post if needed, but don’t expect red if the aurora is green.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I photograph the aurora with a smartphone?

Yes, but results are limited. Use a tripod and a long exposure app (e.g., 10 seconds, ISO 800). Newer phones with night mode can capture some color, but a DSLR/mirrorless will always be better.

Do I need a special camera for aurora photography?

No. Any DSLR or mirrorless with manual controls and a wide-angle lens works. Full-frame sensors handle high ISO better, but crop sensors can still produce great results.

What is the best time of night to see the aurora?

Usually between 10 PM and 2 AM local time, but it can appear earlier or later. Check the aurora forecast and be patient—sometimes you’ll wait hours.

Why are my photos green when the aurora looked white?

Your eyes are less sensitive to color in low light. The camera picks up the green (and sometimes red/purple) wavelengths that your eyes miss. That’s normal.

How do I focus in the dark?

Use manual focus and live view. Zoom in on a bright star, then adjust the focus ring until the star is a tiny, sharp dot. If you can’t see a star, use a distant light on the horizon.

What should I do if the aurora is too faint to see with my eyes?

Set your camera to a high ISO (6400) and a 10-second exposure. The camera will often pick up faint aurora that your eyes can’t see. Take a test shot and review it—you might be surprised.

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