This guide shows you how to capture the northern lights (aurora borealis) using just your smartphone. You’ll learn the essential settings, techniques, and preparation needed to get sharp, colorful shots of the aurora, even with a phone camera.
What You’ll Need
- A smartphone with a manual or pro camera mode (most modern phones have this).
- A tripod or a stable surface to rest your phone on. This is essential for long exposures.
- A fully charged phone and a portable power bank, as cold weather drains batteries quickly.
- Warm clothing, gloves (preferably touchscreen-compatible), and a headlamp with a red light mode to preserve your night vision.
- Knowledge of when and where to look: you need clear skies, high latitude (typically above 60°), and minimal light pollution.
Step-by-Step
- Check aurora forecast and weather. Use a reliable aurora forecast app or website (like the NOAA Ovation model) to predict activity. Also check cloud cover – you need clear skies. Aim for a KP index of 4 or higher for visible aurora at lower latitudes.
- Find a dark location. Get away from city lights. Use a light pollution map to find a dark site. The darker the sky, the better the aurora will appear in your photos.
- Set up your phone on a tripod. A stable base is crucial. If you don’t have a tripod, prop your phone against a rock or use a makeshift stand. Make sure it won’t move during the exposure.
- Clean your lens. Wipe the camera lens with a microfiber cloth. Fingerprints and smudges cause glare and reduce sharpness.
- Open your camera app and switch to manual/pro mode. On iPhone, you may need a third-party app like ProCamera or Halide. On Android, look for “Pro� or “Manual� mode in the native camera app.
- Set focus to infinity (or manual). Tap on the sky to focus, then lock focus by holding the screen (on iPhone) or using manual focus slider. Set it to the farthest distance (infinity symbol �). This ensures stars are sharp.
- Set ISO. Start with ISO 800. If the aurora is very bright, you can lower it to 400 to reduce noise. If it’s faint, increase to 1600 or 3200, but be aware of grain.
- Set shutter speed (exposure time). Start with 5 seconds. If the aurora is moving fast, use 3-4 seconds to avoid blur. If it’s slow and dim, you can go up to 10-15 seconds. Longer exposures also cause star trails, so keep it under 15 seconds.
- Set white balance. Set it to around 3500K-4000K (tungsten/fluorescent) to keep the sky dark and colors natural. Auto white balance can wash out the aurora.
- Use a timer or remote shutter. Even touching the phone can cause shake. Use the self-timer (3-second delay) or a Bluetooth remote shutter button.
- Take the photo. Press the shutter and wait. Review the image – if it’s too dark, increase ISO or shutter time; if it’s too bright or washed out, decrease them.
- Experiment with composition. Include interesting foreground elements like trees, mountains, or a lake to add scale. Use the aurora as the background.
Common Mistakes
- Using auto mode: Auto mode will use a flash and a short exposure, resulting in a black photo or a blurry mess.
- Holding the phone by hand: Any movement ruins a long exposure. Always use a tripod or stable surface.
- Setting ISO too high: ISO 3200 or 6400 creates excessive noise, making the photo look grainy and losing detail.
- Shutter speed too long: Exposures over 15-20 seconds cause stars to become elongated streaks, which distracts from the aurora.
- Leaving auto white balance: Auto WB often makes the sky look greenish-yellow or gray, not the true colors.
- Not checking focus: If the stars are blurry, the focus is off. Always zoom in on a star after focusing to confirm sharpness.
Tips
- Shoot in RAW format if your phone supports it. RAW files retain more data, allowing you to recover details and adjust colors in post-processing.
- Use a wide-angle lens (0.5x or ultrawide) to capture more of the sky. It also allows longer exposures before star trails appear.
- Bring extra batteries. Cold drains batteries quickly. Keep a power bank and keep your phone warm when not in use.
- Turn off the flash and any night mode that might automatically brighten the scene.
- Learn to read the aurora. It often appears as a faint gray glow before it becomes visible to the naked eye. Point your camera at that glow – it may pick up colors you can’t see.
- Use a remote app like the camera’s companion app to control the shutter without touching the phone.
Troubleshooting
- Photos are completely black: Increase ISO to 1600 or 3200, and increase shutter speed to 10-15 seconds. Make sure the lens is clean and the phone is stable.
- Stars are blurry or look like lines: Shorten the shutter speed to 5 seconds or less. Also ensure focus is set to infinity.
- Aurora looks green but washed out: Lower the ISO and reduce exposure time. Also set white balance to a cooler temperature (3500K).
- Photos are too noisy/grainy: Lower ISO to 400 or 800. If the aurora is dim, you may need to accept some noise or use a longer exposure (but watch for star trails).
- Phone won’t focus: Tap on the brightest star in the sky to focus, then lock focus. If that fails, manually set focus to infinity.
- Aurora is visible to the eye but not in the photo: The aurora may be faint. Use a longer exposure (10-15s) and higher ISO (1600-3200). Sometimes the camera can see colors the eye cannot.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I photograph the northern lights with an iPhone?
Yes. iPhones (especially recent models) have excellent low-light cameras. Use a third-party app like ProCamera or Halide to access manual controls, or use the built-in Night mode with a tripod – it can automatically extend exposure up to 30 seconds.
Do I need a special lens for my phone?
No. Your phone’s built-in wide-angle lens is sufficient. Just use the main camera (not the telephoto) and avoid digital zoom.
What is the best time to see the northern lights?
The best time is typically from late September to late March, between 10 PM and 2 AM local time, during periods of high solar activity. Check aurora forecasts and be prepared to wait.
Can I take aurora photos without a tripod?
Technically no, because long exposures require absolute stability. You can try resting your phone on a flat surface or using a makeshift stand, but a tripod is highly recommended.
Why do my photos look green but I saw white/gray?
The camera sensor is more sensitive to the green wavelength than your eyes. The aurora often appears colorless to the naked eye, but the camera picks up the green (and sometimes red) colors.
How do I edit aurora photos?
Use any photo editing app (Lightroom, Snapseed, etc.) to adjust exposure, contrast, white balance, and saturation slightly. Increase clarity and sharpness to bring out details. Avoid over-editing – keep it natural.
Related
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