Knitting stitch charts turn a pattern into a visual grid, where each square represents one stitch and each symbol tells you exactly what to do. Learning to read them unlocks thousands of patterns, and—more importantly—lets you spot mistakes before you knit an entire row the wrong way. This guide walks you through the symbols, the reading direction, and the habits that catch errors early.
What You’ll Need
- Your knitting pattern with a chart legend (symbol key)
- A highlighter or removable tape to mark your place
- A row counter or a piece of paper and pencil
- Your knitting project and needles (for practicing)
Step-by-Step
- Find the chart legend. Every chart should have a key that explains each symbol. If it doesn’t, look at the pattern’s written instructions—the symbols almost always match the abbreviations. Write the meaning next to any symbol you don’t recognize.
- Identify the right side vs. wrong side. Charts usually show the right side (the public side) of the fabric. Odd-numbered rows are typically right-side rows, and even-numbered rows are wrong-side rows—but check the pattern, because some charts show every row as it appears from the right side.
- Check the reading direction. On right-side rows, read the chart from right to left. On wrong-side rows, read from left to right. This mirrors the way you knit: you work each row from the stitch closest to your needle tip, which is on the right for right-handed knitters.
- Find the repeat box. Many charts have a thick border or bold outline around a section—that’s the repeat. You work the stitches outside the box once, then repeat the boxed section across the row, then work the stitches after the box once more. Count your stitches to make sure the repeat divides evenly.
- Start with a highlighter on the first row. Place a strip of removable tape or a highlighter line directly under the first row of the chart. As you knit that row, move the marker up one row at a time. This prevents you from accidentally re-knitting the same row or skipping ahead.
- Read each square as one stitch. Every square, no matter how small the symbol, is exactly one stitch. The symbol tells you what to do with that stitch: knit, purl, yarn over, decrease, slip, etc. Work the row stitch by stitch, following the squares left to right (or right to left) exactly as the direction dictates.
- Count your stitches after each repeat. After finishing one full repeat of the pattern, count the stitches on your needle. The count should match the number of squares in that repeat plus any edge stitches. If it doesn’t, you’ve made an error—stop and fix it now, not ten rows later.
- Use a row counter. Charts can look repetitive, and it’s easy to lose track. Click your row counter after completing each row, or write the row number on a sticky note and attach it to the chart.
- Check your work against the chart every few rows. After every 3–5 rows, look at the fabric and compare it to the chart. Does the pattern of knits, purls, and decreases match? If something looks off, trace back to find where the error happened—it’s almost always in the row you just finished.
- Mark off completed rows. Use a pencil to lightly check off each row as you finish it. This is especially helpful for lace or cable patterns where rows look similar.
Common Mistakes
- Reading wrong-side rows incorrectly. On wrong-side rows, you read left to right, but many knitters automatically read right to left. This causes the pattern to mirror incorrectly.
- Forgetting that purl stitches are shown as they appear. A purl stitch on the right side looks like a little bump, but on the wrong side it looks like a V. The chart symbol for a purl (often a horizontal dash) means “purl this stitch on this row,” not “this is what the stitch looks like from the front.”
- Ignoring the repeat box. If you skip the repeat box, you’ll either run out of stitches or have extra ones at the end of the row.
- Counting yarn overs as stitches. A yarn over adds a stitch, but it doesn’t use one from the needle. When counting stitches after a row, remember that yarn overs increase the total count.
- Losing your place in a long chart. Without a marker, it’s almost guaranteed you’ll lose your row. Always use something to track your place.
Tips
- Photocopy or print your chart. Mark it up freely—highlight symbols, draw arrows, and write notes. Keep the original clean.
- Use a magnetic chart keeper. These boards hold your chart in place and have magnetic strips that cover the rows above and below your current row, so you only see the row you’re working on.
- Learn the common symbols. A blank square is usually knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side. A dot is usually purl on the right side. Diagonal lines represent decreases (\/ for k2tog, /\ for ssk). An open circle is a yarn over. Once you know these, most charts become readable.
- Practice with a simple chart. Start with a 4-stitch, 4-row repeat like a seed stitch or simple ribbing. Knit a small swatch and compare it to the chart until you feel confident.
- Count stitches before and after each row. If the pattern doesn’t change stitch count (no increases/decreases), the number of stitches should stay the same. If it changes, know exactly how many stitches you should have after each row.
Troubleshooting
- Your stitch count is off at the end of a row. Count the stitches in the chart row you just knit. If you have more, you likely added a yarn over or worked a decrease incorrectly. If you have fewer, you may have missed a yarn over or worked two stitches together when you shouldn’t have. Tink (unknit) back to the last place where the count was correct and re-knit that section.
- The pattern doesn’t look like the photo. Check that you’re reading the chart from the correct direction. Also verify that you’re using the right symbols—a k2tog (right-leaning decrease) vs. ssk (left-leaning) will change the slant of the pattern.
- You’re on the wrong row. If you lose your place, look at the last complete row on your needle. Compare it to the chart. The row you just finished should match the chart row above the one you’re about to knit. If you’re unsure, count the rows from the cast-on edge.
- The repeat isn’t fitting across your stitches. Check the number of stitches before and after the repeat box. If the total doesn’t match your cast-on, you may have miscounted your cast-on or missed an edge stitch.
- You keep making the same mistake. Put a lifeline in—thread a contrasting scrap yarn through the stitches of the last complete row. If you make an error, you can rip back to the lifeline and start again without losing all your work.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do I read the chart from bottom to top or top to bottom?
A: Always from bottom to top. Row 1 is at the bottom, row 2 above it, and so on. You knit the bottom row first, then work your way up.
Q: What does a blank square mean?
A: It usually means “knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side.” But always check the legend—some patterns use a blank square for a different stitch.
Q: What if my chart doesn’t have a legend?
A: Look for the written instructions in the pattern. The symbols almost always correspond to the abbreviations used there. If you still can’t figure it out, search for the symbol online or ask in a knitting forum.
Q: How do I handle charts with no row numbers?
A: Count the rows from the bottom. If you’re unsure, use a highlighter to mark every 5th row so you can count more easily.
Q: Can I read a chart from right to left on every row?
A: Only if the pattern explicitly says so. Most charts alternate direction, but some are designed to be read right to left on all rows for simplicity. Always check the pattern notes.
Q: What’s the best way to fix a mistake I caught two rows down?
A: If it’s a simple error like a wrong knit/purl, you can drop the stitch down to the error and pick it back up with a crochet hook. For more complex errors, tink back or rip back to a lifeline and re-knit.
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