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06 Numbers and Powers

Speaker Buying Guide: What to Check First

Card No. 06·52128 · Updated · Standard formula, shown below

You bought a pair of speakers — now what? This guide covers what to check first, how to set them up, and how to get the best sound for your room and budget. Whether they are bookshelf, floor-standing, or powered monitors, the same basic principles apply.

How Speakers Work

Speakers convert electrical signals into sound waves. The amplifier sends an alternating current to the voice coil, which sits in a magnetic field. The coil moves back and forth, pushing the cone (diaphragm) and creating pressure waves in the air. The size and design of the cone determine the frequency range it handles. Most speakers have two or more drivers: a tweeter for high frequencies and a woofer for low frequencies, connected through a crossover that splits the signal.

Powered speakers have a built-in amplifier; passive speakers need an external receiver or amp. Bookshelf speakers are small and designed to sit on stands or shelves; floor-standing speakers are larger and often produce deeper bass. There is no universal “best” type — it depends on your room size, music taste, and budget.

What to Check After Buying

  • Inspect for damage: Look at the cones, surrounds, and terminals for dents or tears. Even small punctures can cause buzzing or distorted sound.
  • Check impedance and power handling: Match the speaker’s impedance (usually 4, 6, or 8 ohms) with your amplifier’s rated range. A mismatch can cause overheating or poor sound.
  • Verify connections: Ensure the speaker wire is stripped properly and connected to the correct terminals (+ to +, – to -). Reversed polarity can cancel bass.
  • Placement: Position speakers at ear level when seated, and away from walls if they are rear-ported. Experiment with toe-in angle for imaging.

Common Problems and Fixes

No sound: Check that the amplifier is on, the correct input is selected, and the speaker wire is firmly connected. Try a different source to rule out the player.

Distortion at low volume: This often means the amplifier is clipping — the signal is too strong for the amp. Turn down the source volume instead of the amp’s volume.

Buzzing or rattling: Loose screws, a torn surround, or a foreign object near the cone can cause this. Tighten all hardware and inspect the drivers.

Weak bass: Check that the speakers are not too close to a wall or corner, which can cause phase cancellation. Also verify that the polarity is correct on both speakers.

How to Choose the Right Speakers

Before buying, measure your room and think about how you will use the speakers. For a small room or desk, bookshelf speakers with a subwoofer often work well. For a large living room, floor-standing speakers can fill the space without a sub. Consider the following:

  • Room size: Larger rooms need more output and deeper bass. A rough guide: under 20 m² (215 ft²) — bookshelf; over 30 m² (323 ft²) — floor-standing or a subwoofer.
  • Amplifier power: Match the speaker’s recommended power range (e.g., 20–100 W). Too little power can cause clipping; too much can damage the speaker.
  • Listening habits: For classical or jazz, accuracy matters more than loudness. For rock or movies, look for good dynamics and bass extension.
  • Budget: Set a realistic budget and remember that a good pair of speakers can last decades. It is often better to buy fewer, better components than many cheap ones.

Costs and Budget Considerations

Speaker prices range widely, but you do not need to spend a fortune. Entry-level bookshelf speakers can cost under $100 for a pair, while high-end audiophile models can exceed $10,000. The sweet spot for most people is $200–$500 per pair, where you get decent build quality and sound. Remember to budget for a receiver or amplifier if you bought passive speakers — a basic stereo amp starts around $150. Cables and stands add another $50–$100. There is no “best” price point; listen to speakers in a store if possible, and trust your ears over specs.

Safety and Maintenance

Keep speakers away from moisture and extreme heat. Do not place them directly on the floor where they can get kicked or vacuumed. Dust the cones gently with a soft brush — never apply pressure. When cleaning, do not use liquid cleaners. If you have pets, consider grilles to protect the drivers. For powered speakers, unplug them during storms. Always turn the volume down before connecting or disconnecting cables to avoid sudden spikes.

One common misconception is that more watts automatically mean louder and better sound. Wattage only tells you how much power the speaker can handle, not how efficient it is. A 50 W speaker with high sensitivity (e.g., 92 dB) can sound louder than a 100 W speaker with 86 dB sensitivity. Check the sensitivity rating (dB at 1 W/1 m) and the impedance to understand how hard the speaker is to drive.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a subwoofer with bookshelf speakers? Not necessarily. Many bookshelf speakers produce enough bass for music. If you watch movies or listen to electronic music with deep bass, a subwoofer adds the low frequencies below 50 Hz that small speakers cannot reproduce.

What is the difference between 2-way and 3-way speakers? A 2-way speaker has two drivers (tweeter and woofer). A 3-way adds a midrange driver, which can improve clarity in the vocal range. For most home listening, a good 2-way is sufficient; 3-way designs are often larger and more expensive.

How far should speakers be from the wall? For rear-ported speakers, keep them at least 20–30 cm (8–12 inches) from the wall to avoid boomy bass. Front-ported or sealed speakers can be placed closer. Experiment to find the spot with the most balanced bass.

Can I use speaker wire that is too thick? No, thicker wire (lower gauge number) is fine and often better for long runs. It has less resistance, so more power reaches the speaker. For runs under 10 meters, 16-gauge is sufficient; for longer runs, use 14-gauge or 12-gauge.

Why does one speaker sound louder than the other? First, check the balance control on your amplifier. Then swap the speakers to see if the issue follows the speaker or stays with the channel. If it follows the speaker, there may be a driver problem; if it stays, the amplifier or cable is at fault.

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