Why I Won’t Buy a CRT for Retro Gaming

CRT televisions and monitors are often praised as the gold standard for retro gaming, but I won’t be buying one. The practical downsides—bulk, weight, maintenance, and cost—outweigh the image quality advantages for most people, including me. Here’s a detailed look at why skipping the CRT might be the smarter choice.

Background: Why CRTs Became the Retro Gamer’s Choice

CRT (cathode-ray tube) displays were the only option for gaming from the 1970s through the early 2000s. They work by firing an electron beam at a phosphor-coated screen, which lights up momentarily. This creates a distinctive look: scanlines (the dark lines between horizontal lines of pixels), near-zero input lag, and natural motion blur that matches the way games were designed. When LCDs took over, early models had poor response times and scaling issues, so retro enthusiasts clung to CRTs for the authentic experience. The result is a niche but passionate community that still hunts for these heavy, aging displays.

How CRT Gaming Works (and Why It Looks Different)

Retro consoles output at fixed resolutions (like 240p for the NES or 480i for the PS2) and refresh rates (60Hz in North America, 50Hz in Europe). A CRT can display these signals natively without scaling, because the electron beam directly draws each line. This gives:

Scanlines: The visible gaps between lines, which soften the image and hide pixel imperfections.
Low input lag: CRT phosphors respond in microseconds, so there’s virtually no delay between pressing a button and seeing the action.
Motion clarity: Fast-moving sprites don’t blur as much as on many modern displays.

However, this is only true if the CRT supports the exact signal. A 60Hz-only CRT will struggle with PAL (50Hz) games, and a VGA monitor won’t accept 240p without a converter. The technology is unforgiving about mismatches.

Space and Weight: The Physical Burden

CRTs are heavy and bulky. A 27-inch CRT TV can weigh 80 pounds (36 kg) or more, and a 32-inch model can exceed 150 pounds (68 kg). They need deep, sturdy furniture—a standard TV stand won’t hold them. Moving one is a two-person job, and it’s a common injury risk. For anyone with a small apartment or a shared living space, dedicating a corner to a 100-pound tube is impractical. Even a 14-inch CRT, which is manageable, still takes up desk space that a flat panel wouldn’t.

Maintenance and Reliability: Aging Electronics

CRTs are old. Most were manufactured in the 1990s or early 2000s, and their capacitors, flyback transformers, and electron guns degrade over time. Common issues include:

Dim or blurry picture: The phosphor coating wears out with use.
Color drift: The magnetic fields inside the tube can shift, causing tinted edges.
Capacitor failure: This can cause buzzing, flickering, or no power at all.
Screen burn-in: Static HUDs from games can leave permanent ghost images.

Repairing a CRT is dangerous—the tube can hold a lethal charge even when unplugged—and replacement parts are increasingly scarce. Most repair shops won’t touch them. If a CRT dies, you’re usually left with a heavy paperweight.

Cost and Availability: The Hidden Price Tag

You can sometimes find a free CRT on the curb, but the good ones—PVM/BVM professional monitors or well-maintained consumer sets with component inputs—command high prices online. A 20-inch Sony PVM can sell for $200–$500, and shipping a CRT is expensive and risky due to weight and fragility. Even a common 27-inch Trinitron might cost $100–$300 if it’s in good condition and includes the original remote. Then you need cables, a switch for multiple consoles, and possibly a scaler. The total cost can easily exceed a modern upscaler solution.

Alternatives That Solve the Problems

Modern options replicate much of the CRT experience without the bulk:

RetroTINK or OSSC: These scalers convert 240p/480i signals to HDMI with scanline options and low latency. They work with any modern TV and cost $100–$300.
FPGA consoles: Systems like the MiSTer or Analogue consoles use hardware emulation to output pixel-perfect video over HDMI, including scanline filters.
Software emulation: Emulators like RetroArch can apply CRT shaders (e.g., CRT-Royale) that simulate scanlines, phosphor glow, and even screen curvature.
OLED with BFI: Some modern OLED TVs have black-frame insertion, which mimics CRT motion clarity.

These solutions are lighter, cheaper to run, and don’t require constant maintenance.

Common Problems with CRT Ownership

Even if you find a working CRT, daily use brings annoyances:

No remote or missing inputs: Many CRTs are missing the original remote, making it hard to change inputs or adjust settings.
Limited input types: Older sets only have RF or composite, which look soft. Component or RGB inputs are rare on consumer TVs.
Geometry issues: The image can be slightly curved, with bowing at the edges, requiring service menu adjustments.
Hum and heat: CRTs emit a high-pitched whine (especially at 15kHz) and generate significant heat, which can be unpleasant in a small room.

These aren’t dealbreakers for everyone, but they add friction to what should be a plug-and-play hobby.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a CRT really necessary for retro gaming?

No. It’s the most authentic way to play, but modern scalers and shaders get very close. If you’re not a purist, a good upscaler on a modern TV is a practical substitute.

Can I use a CRT monitor for consoles?

Yes, but you’ll need a converter. VGA monitors accept 31kHz signals, while most consoles output 15kHz. A device like the Extron Emotia or a GBS-C can convert, but it’s an extra cost and setup step.

Is it safe to open a CRT to fix it?

No. The anode can hold a charge of over 20,000 volts even after being unplugged. Only trained technicians should open a CRT. If it’s broken, it’s safer to recycle it.

How long do CRTs last?

It varies. A well-used set might last 20–30 years, but capacitors and tubes degrade. Some PVMs have 50,000-hour ratings, but many are already past that. There’s no way to know without testing.

Are small CRTs better than large ones?

For 240p games, a smaller CRT (13–20 inches) can look sharper because the scanlines are tighter. Large CRTs are heavier and more prone to geometry issues, but they give a more immersive arcade feel.

Can I get the CRT look with a regular TV?

Yes, if you use a scaler with scanline generation. The result isn’t identical, but for most people, it’s indistinguishable in normal viewing.

Method: the standard formula for this calculation, rounded as each result states. See how the calculators work or report an error.

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