Multitool Saw Steel & Locking Mechanism Guide

When choosing a multitool, the saw blade steel and the locking mechanism are the two features that most determine how well the tool performs and how safe it is to use. Look for a saw blade made from high-carbon stainless steel (like 420HC or 440C) for a good balance of edge retention and corrosion resistance, and a locking mechanism that is a liner lock or frame lock, which are the most secure and durable options for heavy use. This guide explains what each steel type and lock style means in practice, how they affect your everyday carry, and what to avoid.

Formula

The cutting rate is the cut length divided by the sawing time:

Cutting rate (cm/min) = Cut length (cm) ÷ Sawing time (min)

Where:

• Cut length (cm) is the distance the saw blade travels through the material.
• Sawing time (min) is the total time spent actively sawing.
• Cutting rate (cm/min) is the average speed of the cut.

The second output, total cuts in one hour, is simply 60 divided by the sawing time (assuming each cut takes the same time).

Worked Example

Using the default values from the calculator: sawing time = 10 minutes, cut length = 15 cm.

1. Cutting rate = 15 cm ÷ 10 min = 1.5 cm/min
2. Total cuts in 1 hour = 60 ÷ 10 = 6 cuts

This means that if you cut a 15 cm branch in 10 minutes, your average cutting speed is 1.5 cm per minute, and you could complete about 6 such cuts in an hour of continuous sawing.

Why Saw Steel Matters

The steel in a multitool saw blade is a trade-off between hardness (edge retention), toughness (resistance to breaking), and corrosion resistance. Most multitools use stainless steel because they are carried in pockets, exposed to sweat, and often used outdoors. High-carbon stainless steels like 420HC, 440C, and 14C28N are common because they offer good edge retention and are easy to sharpen. Some premium tools use tool steels like D2 or M4, which hold an edge longer but are more prone to rust and harder to sharpen in the field. For most users, a mid-range stainless steel like 420HC is the best balance—it won’t hold an edge as long as a super steel, but it resists rust and is easy to touch up with a small file.

How Locking Mechanisms Work

The locking mechanism is what keeps the saw blade (or any tool) from folding shut while you are using it. The most common types are:

• Liner lock: A thin metal liner inside the handle slides behind the blade tang when opened. It is simple, strong, and easy to operate with one hand.
• Frame lock: Similar to a liner lock, but the lock is part of the handle frame itself, making it thicker and often stronger.
• Back lock: A spring-loaded bar engages a notch on the blade’s spine. It is very secure but usually requires two hands to close.
• Button lock: A push-button releases the blade. Easy to use but can be accidentally pressed in a pocket.
• Slip joint: Not a true lock—just a spring that holds the blade open. It can fold if pressed hard. Avoid for heavy sawing.

For sawing, a liner lock or frame lock is recommended because they withstand the lateral pressure of pushing and pulling without failing.

How to Choose the Right Combination

Think about what you will actually saw. If you are cutting small branches, plastic, or rope, a standard 420HC blade with a liner lock is fine. If you are doing heavy woodworking or camping, look for a longer saw blade (over 6 cm) with a frame lock and a steel that holds an edge longer, like 14C28N. Also consider blade thickness—thicker blades (around 2 mm) are stiffer and less likely to bend during aggressive cuts. The saw teeth per inch (TPI) matter too: fewer teeth (6-8 TPI) cut faster but rougher; more teeth (10-12 TPI) give a smoother cut but slower. For general use, 8-10 TPI is a good middle ground.

Common Problems and Misconceptions

One common misconception is that a harder steel is always better. Harder steel (like D2) holds an edge longer but is more brittle and can chip if you hit a nail or a rock. Another issue is that some multitools have a saw blade that is not replaceable—if you break it, you have to send the whole tool in for service. Check if the saw is user-replaceable before buying. Also, a weak lock can fail during sawing, causing the blade to fold onto your fingers. Test the lock by opening the saw and pressing on the spine of the blade; it should not move or flex. If it does, the lock is inadequate.

Comparisons: Steel Types and Lock Types

Here is a quick comparison of common saw steels:

• 420HC: Good edge retention, easy to sharpen, very corrosion-resistant. Best for general use.
• 440C: Harder than 420HC, holds an edge longer, but slightly more brittle and harder to sharpen.
• 14C28N: Excellent edge retention and toughness, very corrosion-resistant. A step up for serious users.
• D2: Very hard, holds an edge extremely well, but less corrosion-resistant and can chip.

For locks, liner locks are the most common because they are easy to manufacture and use. Frame locks are stronger but add weight. Back locks are very secure but slower to close. Button locks are convenient but can be less secure if the button is pressed accidentally. Slip joints are not recommended for sawing at all.

Safety and Maintenance Tips

Always lock the saw blade before use and check the lock every time you open it. Keep the blade clean and dry after use, especially if the steel is not fully stainless. Apply a light oil to the pivot and lock mechanism to keep them smooth. When sawing, use long, even strokes and let the blade do the work—do not force it. Wear gloves if cutting wood, as splinters are common. Never use a multitool saw on metal unless it is specifically designed for that; most saw blades are for wood and plastic only. If the blade becomes dull, replace it if possible, or sharpen it with a fine file, but be aware that sharpening saw teeth by hand is difficult and often not worth the effort.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best steel for a multitool saw?

For most people, 420HC is the best all-around steel because it resists rust, holds an edge reasonably well, and is easy to sharpen. If you need maximum edge retention and are willing to deal with more maintenance, 14C28N or D2 are better, but they are harder to sharpen in the field.

Is a liner lock strong enough for sawing?

Yes, a well-made liner lock is strong enough for sawing. It is the same mechanism used in many folding knives that are subject to heavy use. However, the quality of the lock matters—a cheap liner lock may be thin or poorly fitted, so test it before relying on it.

Can I replace the saw blade on my multitool?

It depends on the model. Some multitools have replaceable saw blades that can be swapped out with a screwdriver, while others are permanently attached. Check the manufacturer’s website or manual before buying. If the blade is not replaceable, you will need to send the tool in for service if it breaks.

How do I know if the lock is safe?

Open the saw and press firmly on the spine of the blade (the dull edge). If the blade folds or the lock moves, it is not safe. Also, listen for a distinct click when the lock engages. A good lock should not have any play when engaged.

What is the difference between a saw and a file on a multitool?

A saw is designed for cutting wood, plastic, and soft materials. A file is for shaping metal, wood, or plastic by abrasion. They are not interchangeable. Use the saw for cutting, and the file for smoothing or removing material.

Should I get a multitool with a saw or a dedicated folding saw?

If you only need to cut small branches occasionally, a multitool saw is convenient. If you do a lot of camping or woodworking, a dedicated folding saw (like a pruning saw) will be more efficient, have a longer blade, and be more comfortable to use. Multitool saws are for light to medium tasks only.

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in t | Sawing time | min | 10 | 0 | 120
in l | Cut length | cm | 15 | 1 | 100
out rate | Cutting rate | cm/min | l / t | 2
out total | Total cuts in 1 hour | cuts | 60 / t | 0