Keycap Guide: Materials, Profiles & Sizes

This guide explains everything you need to know about mechanical keyboard keycaps: the materials they are made from, the profiles (shapes) they come in, and how to choose a set that fits your keyboard and typing style. By the end, you will know what to look for when buying your first or next keycap set, and how to avoid common compatibility mistakes.

What Are Keycaps and Why Do They Matter?

Keycaps are the plastic covers that sit on top of the mechanical switches of a keyboard. They are the primary surface your fingers touch, so they directly affect typing feel, sound, and durability. While the switch underneath determines the actuation force and tactile feedback, the keycap determines the texture, height, and shape of each key. A good keycap set can make a $50 keyboard feel like a $200 one, while a poorly chosen set can ruin an otherwise great board.

Keycaps are also the most customizable part of a keyboard. They come in thousands of color schemes, fonts, and materials, and swapping them is a simple, reversible modification that requires no soldering or technical skill. This is why keycaps are often the first upgrade enthusiasts make.

Keycap Materials: ABS vs. PBT vs. POM

The two dominant plastics for keycaps are ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) and PBT (polybutylene terephthalate). A third, POM (polyoxymethylene), is less common but worth knowing.

• ABS is the most common and cheapest material. It has a smooth, slightly glossy feel and is used on most stock keyboards. Its main drawback is that it develops a shiny, worn appearance on high-use keys (like the spacebar and ‘E’) after several months of use. ABS is also more prone to warping during manufacturing, though this is rarely an issue with quality sets.
• PBT is denser and more textured than ABS. It resists shine and feels slightly grainy, which many typists prefer. PBT is also more resistant to heat and chemicals. Historically, PBT was only available in thick, rough finishes, but modern PBT sets can be smooth and vibrant. PBT keycaps are generally more expensive than ABS but last much longer visually.
• POM is a self-lubricating plastic that feels smooth and waxy. It is rarely used for full keycap sets and is more common in artisan single-key caps. POM is durable but difficult to dye, so color options are limited.

There is also a distinction between double-shot and dye-sublimated legends (the letters/numbers on the caps). Double-shot molding fuses two plastic layers together, creating legends that never wear off. Dye-sublimation infuses dye into the plastic, which is also very durable but only works well on lighter-colored PBT caps. Laser-etched or pad-printed legends are cheaper and will fade over time.

Keycap Profiles: OEM, Cherry, SA, and More

Profile refers to the shape and height of the keycaps. Different profiles change how your fingers reach the keys and alter the sound of your keyboard.

• OEM is the most common profile, found on most pre-built keyboards. It is slightly taller than Cherry and has a curved top. It is a safe, comfortable choice for most users.
• Cherry is similar to OEM but a few millimeters shorter. Many typists find it more ergonomic because it reduces the distance your fingers travel. Cherry profile is the standard for many enthusiast sets.
• SA (Spherical All) is tall, sculpted, and has a deep dish on the top. It looks retro and feels very different from OEM/Cherry. SA is popular for its aesthetic and thocky sound, but the height can be tiring for some users.
• DSA is uniform (all rows are the same height) and low. This allows you to rearrange keys freely, which is useful for custom layouts. DSA has a flat, low profile that some find very comfortable.
• XDA is similar to DSA but taller and with a wider, flatter top. It has a modern, clean look.
• KAT and MT3 are newer profiles that combine elements of SA and Cherry. MT3 has a deep, sculpted dish that some find very comfortable, while KAT is a medium-height profile with a uniform row shape.

Most keycap sets are sold as a full set that includes caps for all rows. If you buy individual caps, you need to know which row they belong to (e.g., R1, R2, R3) because sculpted profiles are not interchangeable across rows.

Keycap Sizes and Compatibility

Before buying a keycap set, you must check the layout of your keyboard. The most common issue is the size of the bottom row (the row with the spacebar, Alt, Ctrl, etc.).

• Standard (ANSI) layout has a 6.25u spacebar, 1.25u modifiers (Ctrl, Alt, Win), and a 1u right Alt/Fn. This is the most common layout and is supported by almost all keycap sets.
• ISO (European) layout has an extra key next to the left Shift, a larger Enter key, and a smaller left Shift. Many keycap sets include ISO support, but not all.
• 65%, 75%, and 40% keyboards often have non-standard bottom rows with 1u keys on the right side, and sometimes a 2u left Shift or a 1.75u right Shift. You need a keycap set that explicitly states it supports these layouts.
• Split spacebars (e.g., 2.25u + 2.75u) are becoming more common on enthusiast boards. Only a few keycap sets include these sizes.

Keycap sizes are measured in units (u), where 1u is the width of a single letter key. A standard spacebar is 6.25u, while a standard letter key is 1u. Always check the product description for the supported layouts before purchasing.

How to Choose Keycaps: A Practical Guide

Choosing keycaps comes down to three main factors: material, profile, and compatibility. Here is a step-by-step approach:

1. Determine your keyboard layout (ANSI, ISO, 65%, etc.). Write down the sizes of the bottom row keys and the right Shift.
2. Decide on material: If you want maximum durability and a textured feel, choose PBT. If you prefer a smooth, glossy feel and don’t mind shine over time, ABS is fine.
3. Choose a profile: If you are new, start with OEM or Cherry. If you want a retro look and don’t mind the height, try SA. If you want a flat, uniform profile, consider DSA or XDA.
4. Check the legend style: Double-shot is the most durable, but dye-sublimated PBT is also excellent. Avoid pad-printed or laser-etched legends if you want them to last.
5. Verify the set includes all the keys you need: Look for the specific sizes mentioned above. If you have a non-standard layout, look for sets that explicitly list support for it.

Also consider the thickness of the keycaps. Thicker keycaps (1.5mm or more) produce a deeper, more satisfying sound and feel more solid. Many premium sets are made from thick PBT.

Common Keycap Problems and How to Avoid Them

Here are the most frequent issues people run into with keycaps:

• Shine on ABS caps: This is inevitable with ABS, but you can slow it down by washing your hands before typing and avoiding oily foods. PBT is the permanent solution.
• Incompatible bottom row: The most common mistake. Always measure your bottom row before buying. If you have a standard layout, you are safe. If not, look for sets that include extra 1u keys.
• Wobble or loose fit: Some keycaps fit loosely on switches, causing a wobble. This is often due to manufacturing tolerances. You can fix it by adding a small piece of plastic wrap or a thin O-ring on the stem, but this is a temporary fix. Better to buy from reputable brands.
• Legends fading: This happens with cheap printing methods. Choose double-shot or dye-sublimated caps to avoid it.
• Stabilizer interference: Some keycaps (especially SA profile) can interfere with Cherry-style stabilizers on the spacebar. This is rare but can be fixed by filing the keycap stem or using different stabilizers.

Keycaps vs. Switches: What Changes the Feel More?

Many beginners wonder whether they should upgrade keycaps or switches first. The answer depends on your goal. Switches determine the actuation force, tactile bump, and click sound. Keycaps determine the texture, height, and sound resonance. If your keyboard feels mushy or too heavy, switches are the culprit. If the keys feel slippery or too tall, keycaps are the fix. In general, keycaps are a cheaper and less invasive upgrade, so they are a good starting point. However, if you dislike the switch feel, no keycap will fix that.

Cost and Where to Buy

Keycap prices vary widely. A basic ABS set can cost $20-$40, while a high-quality PBT double-shot set can range from $50 to $150. Artisan keycaps (single decorative caps) can cost anywhere from $30 to over $200. The price depends on material, manufacturing method (double-shot vs. dye-sub), profile, and brand reputation. You can buy keycaps from online retailers like Amazon, mechanical keyboard specialty stores, or directly from manufacturers like GMK, Signature Plastics, or Tai-Hao. Group buys (pre-orders) are common for limited-edition sets and can take months to ship. Always read reviews and check the compatibility list before purchasing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are PBT keycaps always better than ABS?

Not always. PBT is more durable and resistant to shine, but ABS can feel smoother and is often used for vibrant, double-shot legends. Some high-end ABS sets (like GMK) are very popular despite the shine. It comes down to personal preference for feel and appearance.

Can I put Cherry profile keycaps on an OEM keyboard?

Yes, as long as the layout is compatible. Cherry and OEM profiles have the same stem cross shape, so they fit on the same switches. The only difference is the height and shape of the caps, which will change the typing feel but not the functionality.

How do I know if my keyboard has a standard bottom row?

Measure the spacebar and the modifier keys. A standard bottom row has a 6.25u spacebar, 1.25u modifiers (Ctrl, Alt, Win), and a 1u right Alt/Fn. If you have a smaller spacebar or extra 1u keys on the right, it is non-standard. You can also look up your keyboard model online.

Do keycaps fit all mechanical switches?

Most keycaps are made for Cherry MX-style switches, which have a cross-shaped stem. If you have switches with a different stem (like Topre or Alps), you need keycaps specifically designed for those. Some switches (like Kailh Box) are compatible with Cherry-style keycaps but may have a tighter fit.

How do I clean keycaps?

Remove the keycaps (use a keycap puller), soak them in warm soapy water for 30 minutes, then scrub gently with a soft brush. Rinse and dry completely before reinstalling. Avoid using harsh chemicals or dishwasher, as they can damage the plastic.

What is a keycap puller and do I need one?

A keycap puller is a small tool that helps remove keycaps without damaging the switches. It is essential if you plan to swap keycaps regularly. A wire puller is better than a ring puller because it distributes force evenly. Most keyboards come with a basic puller, but a quality one costs under $10.

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